Being a surfer is a lifestyle choice and not just a title given to one who surfs. During the day he or she may be disguised as a lawyer, an accountant, a tradie, a bartender or a student, but come the weekend or prior to and after the dawning of the working day a surfer’s true colours are exposed.
A surfer is a happy person, their connection with the waves, the water and nature nurtures their relaxed lifestyle and gives them a positive release. A surfer will make many friends, but their closest ones will be the ones who spend hours in the water alongside them. They haven’t chosen to be a surfer for the status or to attract the other sex, but for the fact that they are truly addicted to the high it gives them.
A surfer will make many purposeful choices based on this lifestyle. The car they drive will be a wagon, a 4WD, a van or a hatchback so that there’s always room to chuck a board or 2 in the back. A sub-woofer or 20 inch rims won’t be the first addition to a surfer’s car, it will be roof racks shortly followed by a wetty bucket. Cities scare surfers so you won’t find them shacking up in a concrete jungle, they generally congregate along coast lines nearest to their favourite breaks.
When a surfer chooses a holiday destination their time won’t be spent trying to figure out which hotel is the nicest and offers the best pool and gym, but which place is closest to the perfect left or right hand reef breaks. The choice of dates to travel aren’t based on the nicest weather but are influenced by the best swell seasons and what the wind is doing. A surfer will travel with 2 pairs of boardies and 2 t-shirts if it means they can squeeze another board in their board bag. Travel essentials for a surfer include fins, a fin key, wax and duct tape. Deodorant and toothpaste will be figured out at a later point.
A surfer will spend their lives travelling to some of the most amazing and remote locations of the world in search of perfect uncrowded peaks. They will embark on these voyages with their close surfer mates and meet other surfers who become close mates.
Surfers are morning people; they have to be in order to beat the crowds and the onshore winds. During their younger years any day off school was spent in the surf and in the working world nothing has changed. A day spent at school or work when the waves are pumping is a surfer’s worst nightmare.
The excitement that runs through a surfer’s body when they get a new board is on par with that of a young child at Christmas time. It never gets old.
The most memorable moments in a surfer’s life will be of their best barrel, turn or a particular session they had with their mates. Weddings, birthdays, child births and first dates will closely precede these memories.
Surfers enjoy the simple things in life and you will often find them embarking on adventures in the search for waves. Nothing gets a surfer’s heart racing more than camping out and waking up to flawless clean barrels.
The lifestyle of a surfer, what a lifestyle indeed.
By Joel Riddell